As we said in our last post, we only got to know about this place as someone Jody got chatting to in Argentina mentioned it. We googled Buzios and that was it – under 200km from Rio and with beaches to die for, our minds were made up.
The bus ride was about 3 hours but it was a lazy bus ride, stopping at different places along the way meaning we actually got to see some Brasilian countryside and scenery along the way.
We arrived at the bus stop area (can’t call it a station it was just a layby they pulled into) but a load of taxis were queueing and we jumped into one and gave him the address of the place we had pre-booked for the night.
It took us quite a while to find it in the end – even though we were in roughly the right location it was impossible to find. And then when we did – with the help of locals, guess what? It was shut. More locals came out to see us but nobody here speaks any English and we haven’t learnt enough Portuguese to get by yet which made understanding what was going on much more difficult. They tried calling the owner and judging by their responses, he said he wasn’t coming back and wasn’t going to let us in. The locals were so apologetic to us but it wasn’t their fault. We were just horrified the owner had taken our booking knowing he wasn’t open. Shocking!
Eventually, leaving Bryan with the bags, Jody went off on foot to find somewhere else. The day was marching on, the sun was going down and if we were ever going to get a drink on the beach whilst there was any light left we had to get plan B moving. Luckily she didn’t have to walk very far and just around the corner was a simple but clean and friendly place and she booked a room.
Bryan in the meantime had got onto booking.com and told them what had happened and they were incredulous too. How can a hotel take your booking and then be shut?
Well we dropped our bags in the new place and set off for a caipirinha on the beach. It was a nice beach and we only just made it for sunset. The water was too cold to paddle in and being out of season we could find only one little bar right down the end selling drinks. But we enjoyed it and felt we deserved it!
We decided to look for food and unfortunately drew a blank here too. Nothing. Nope not a sausage in the hotels – all the restaurants were shut for the winter and we could only find one little cafe in the back streets selling sandwiches.
Because of this we decided that the following day we would head to a different part of Buzios and stay more in the heart of it where we were not going to starve!
In the morning Bryan went for a run and sussed out where we needed to go, we hopped in another taxi (we were too far out here to walk unfortunately) and landed in the laps of Casa Central in the middle of the town. Here a warm welcome awaited us and a small but cute little room. At last we could stop moving for a week.
Buzios itself is a peninsula 200km east of Rio. Being a peninsula it has the ocean on all sides and has many, many different beaches. All with beautiful white sand and clean (but cold) clear water.
Although we said we are in the town, it is more of a village and it really only has a small high street and a few shopping streets around it. From our hostel to the sea took us precisely 5 minutes to walk so you can see it really wasn’t very big.
We walked to the beach just about every day and on the way we always passed a shop selling lots and lots of different flavours of homemade ice-cream. We vowed to eat our way through the entire selection before the week was out and we gave it a pretty good shot!
Bryan managed to get some diving done whilst he was here too. There are only 2 dive schools here and he chose the one that didn’t advertise by using the image of a man holding up a turtle in the water….!
He had a really good time and you can see his video here
We carry a hard drive with us loaded with over 1,500 films and tv series and one night we say down to watch ‘the 100fy journey’. Anyone who has seen this film knows it is about an Indian family that own a restaurant so it is full of images of indian food. We kind of felt that was a mistake as we have been seriously Indian food deprived for a considerable amount of time now and this film was like a form of torture for us.
So now we were on a mission. Find an Indian restaurant.
We thought here in Buzios we would find one as there are so many more restaurants here than where we has stayed in Rio. Our trusty Trip Advisor App with it’s handy ‘near me now’ feature didn’t disappoint. It highlighted an Indian restaurant and off we went. Well we still hadn’t found it by the time we left Buzios despite the map and the address firmly positioning it fairly near to us Although the map and the address didn’t quite match up – maybe that should have given us a clue…!
One of the places we wanted to reach whilst we were here was the nature reserve further south along the coast. We had been on a beach one day – trying a different one this time – and we were approached by 2 lads selling tours. It seemed exactly what we were after so we booked up for the following day.
We spent about an hour driving there past the town of Cabo Frio. Everywhere you go here are long, long beaches with beautiful white sand and magnificent waves rolling in. Real stand and stare scenery.
We arrived at the harbour and got off the bus. It was F.R.E.E.Z.I.N.G.!
Oh dear. This wasn’t going to be like a trip around Koh Tao for sure.
The boat took us to some beautiful beaches and dropped us off for half an hour or so on each one. Everyone was wrapped up in whatever they could find trying to keep warm. The sarong sellers on the beach were doing well today – people were buying sarongs just to wrap themselves up in. A few foresighted people had brought coats too.
But despite the cold, a few brave souls had decided – nope – they were here so they were going to do exactly as they had planned to do and swim and snorkel anyway. We had to admire them but we just huddled up on the beach and waited for the boat to come back and get us. Whilst we waited, we were amazed at the number of selfie sticks that were out on the beach. Dozens of prima donnas pouting and posing for their new facebook profile pictures no doubt.
Trouble was even back on the boat it was cold. The top was open sided and the wind was whipping through it. They didn’t even serve hot drinks on board to we had to just be cold.
Because it was so windy, the waves outside of the sheltered bays were too strong for the boat to go so we didn’t even get to see the beautiful caves either – one of the main reasons we wanted to come on this trip. It wasn’t turning out to be the best of days but we tried to put a brave face on it.
On the way back we did stop at the town of Cabo Frio where we were given lunch before heading over to the beached there. Less windy here we went down onto one of the most beautiful sandy beaches we have ever seen. Again it was vast, the waves were beautiful and the sand was so so soft and so so white. Our guide explained there was no silica in the sand here which made it so fine and so special. The light was at that special time of day too which cast a hue over the sand and made for some lovely photos. Shame we only had our phones with us and not our proper cameras. Oh well!
Back in Buzios it was warmer. We think the town is facing a different way so you get a different wind.
We really enjoyed our break in Buzios. It was quiet as it was low-season and so there were hardly any tourists here. The people had all without exception been friendly and helpful.
But as the 21st June approached it was time to pack up and head back to Rio. Our apartment would be waiting for us and so would the olympics.
And hopefully, one or two Indian restaurants…!